48 Hours in Milan

I recently spent 48 hours in Milan with the sole purpose of seeing as much football as possible. Squeezing in three games in three different leagues, including a goal of the season contender, I still found a bit of time for ‘Strictly’ Italian-style and an unlikely encounter with a Dundee United legend in a public toilet. This is how it went:

Game One of Three

My journey began with a 96-mile drive from Aberdeen to Edinburgh Airport in the early hours of Saturday morning. I’d been up all night on Friday, and slept for most of my flight to Bergamo, which perhaps explains how I spent Saturday night in Milan (see below).

Game one of three was a Serie A Femminile game between Milan and Sassuolo at the splendidly named Puma House Football. The ‘House’ is a sports complex on the south side of the city which hosts both the women’s team and the Milan youth sides. I’m a keen fan of the women’s game and both sides had a Scottish player in their ranks, adding to the appeal of this top-flight game.

Scotland internationals Christy Grimshaw of Milan and Sassuolo’s Lana Clelland have both carved out successful careers in Italy. They are also two of the nicest people you could meet, so when I realised they were playing each other whilst I was in town, I knew I couldn’t miss it.

Lively Chanting

A ticket for the game costs just €5 and I soon found myself amongst the noisiest section of the home support. I know some Italian, almost enough to get by, so could follow some of the lively chanting commentary! When the referee refused to award the hosts a free-kick, the loudest one of the Milan faithful shouted ‘Sei il fratello di Bocelli’. Now I know two things about someone called Bocelli. One is that he is an amazing singer and the other is that he is blind. I’m almost certain the fan wasn’t commenting on the ref’s operatic abilities.

The game itself finished in a 1-1 draw with both goals coming in the opening six minutes. Italian international Valentina Bergamaschi, Milan’s best player on the day, opened the scoring on three minutes. The equaliser came from Sassuolo’s on-loan Juventus striker Chiara Beccari, who looks to be real prospect at just 19-years-old.

A quick catch-up with Scotland midfielder Grimshaw followed the game before a taxi journey back to the centre of Milan with a driver who seemed to be auditioning for a part in the next Fast and Furious movie. After a stroll past the stunning Duomo di Milano, I headed back to my hotel for an early night. I scoured the hotel television in the hope of finding an Italian version of Match of the Day, but the closest I could find was ‘Ballando con le Stelle’, Dancing with the Stars. I’m sure more exciting alternatives are available in the city on a Saturday night, but on two hours sleep I just didn’t have the energy to explore the city’s nightlife.

Sunday

Sunday morning dawned with the enticing prospect of back-to-back games. The first required a short train journey to Brescia; the second would see me return to Milan and the monumental San Siro.
With time enough for lunch and a pint before catching my train to Brescia, it was at this point that I had my close encounter with the 1980s Dundee United legend David Narey. Quite what an image of the Dundee United legend was doing on the cistern of a pub in Milan I’ll never know, but seeing his familiar face as I took care of business was certainly the most surreal moment of the weekend.

Honouring Baggio in Brescia

I had decided to go a watch Brescia play that weekend in no small part due to my admiration of Roberto Baggio. The ‘divine ponytail’ was the one who, more than anyone, turned my footballing interest towards Italy. I often say his goal at Italia 90 against Czechoslovakia was the very minute that I fell for calcio. His time at Brescia was probably my favourite period of his career. He defied the odds there under Carlo Mazzone and wrote a fitting final chapter to his storied life in the game.

Brescia is around a ninety-minute train journey from Milan’s Central Station. In the shadow of the Swiss Alps, the mountains provided a spectacular backdrop for the city skyline which featured what looked from the distance to be an old castle. It seems like such a beautiful city, but this was to be a fleeting visit.
A short tube ride takes you almost to the doorstep of the Stadio Mario Rigamonti. Following the sound of the stadium tannoy echoing off the nearby residential buildings I soon found myself at the stadium. It looks a little different from how I remember it on television in the Baggio days. The old terracing can still be seen, but new stands have been installed, bringing spectators much closer to the field of play. A ticket for the match was good value at around €20 and there were no issues getting my hands on one as the home side’s current form isn’t exactly packing out the stands.

Noisy Away Support

The new stands at the Rigamonti are temporary structures with no interior section, just scaffolding holding up the rows of seats. In fact, you can look down at your feet and see the drop to the floor below. The metal flooring also provides a means to create noise, and the sound of the home fans stamping their feet resembled a huge freight train passing by.

Cremonese went on to win the game 3-0 in what was, in truth, a pretty one-sided affair. The noisy away support that had travelled from nearby Cremona clearly enjoyed their Sunday afternoon as the home fans seemed almost resigned to their defeat from the minute Cremonese took a first half lead.

The walk back to the tube station and the ensuing journey to the train station was very subdued as the home fans trudged away from the stadium to the echoes of the Cremonese fans still celebrating in their section of the stand.

Awe-inspiring

I had two hours to get to San Siro for the Inter v Frosinone match, which turned out to be a bit tight. Upon arrival at Milano Centrale station my concerns about making kick-off were eased by the sight of crowds of people wearing black and blue Inter colours. A few packed Metro journeys later and I arrived at the Stadio Guiseppe Meazza.

As you emerge from the Metro station the imposing shape of the famous stadium is as awe-inspiring as the city’s Duomo. As I joined the throng of fans entering the ground, I had to put my Italian language skills to the test to ask which turnstile to use and again once inside to find my seat.
It was my second visit to the ground but the sight of the near full stadium surrounding the floodlit pitch as I emerged from the interior of the stand was every bit as breathtaking as my first time. Just being there was almost worth the €30 admission fee.

Witnessing a Wonder Goal

Inter would win the game comfortably enough, but the moment I’ll remember forever was undoubtedly Federico Dimarco’s stunning long-range goal. There was no doubt in my mind that the Italian international meant to shoot and boy did he shoot. Infused with an air of disbelief, the roar of the crowd as the ball hit the net had a higher pitch than usual. If you’ve ever been in a stadium where something incredible has happened, you’ll recognise that low exited murmur that fills the stands as fans process what they have just witnessed. That’s exactly what happened after Dimarco’s incredible strike. Seeing it in person was unquestionably the highlight of my 48 hours in Milan.

At the end of the game, I made my way back into the city on a crowded Metro, as Inter fans around me replayed the goal on their phones. By the time I got back to the hotel I had just six of my 48 hours in Milan remaining. I slept soundly for most them, but as I dreamt about a Federico Di Marco wonder strike, it was the face of David Narey that celebrated the goal!

Travel Info
Flights – Ryanair Edinburgh to Milan (Bergamo) return – £62.81
Hotel – Spice Hotel Milano (right beside Central Station) – £93 per night
Train – Milan to Brescia return – €16
Match Tickets –
Milan W v Sassuolo W – €5
Brescia v Cremonese – €18
Inter v Frosinone – €35

This article previously featured in The Gentleman Ultra – 48 Hours in Milan